今天我們來到的是素有面食之鄉(xiāng)美稱的山西省會太原。山西人愛吃面,太原的夜市這面食當(dāng)然是一大主角,太原面食品種繁多,歷史悠久,制作方法各異,澆頭菜碼考究。《消費(fèi)主張》的記者這次在太原夜市又會有什么發(fā)現(xiàn)呢?
挾裹在柳巷逛街的人流中,穿過繁華的鼓樓街商業(yè)區(qū),一處充滿明清風(fēng)貌的建筑體系便躍然于你的眼前。這里就是太原人常常掛在嘴邊,津津樂道的食品街,一個承載著許多老太原人美食回憶的地方。
陳穎是太原電視臺的節(jié)目主持人,她告訴記者,這條食品街已經(jīng)先后升級改造過好幾次,最近的一次是在2013年。如今的新食品街以旅游消費(fèi)群體為主要目標(biāo)。餐飲消費(fèi)定位以中、高檔餐飲和特色小吃為主,來這個夜市消費(fèi),基本可以在百元以內(nèi)搞定。今晚,陳穎會帶記者品嘗什么樣的夜市美食呢?
中國夜市全攻略(太原篇):面面地道
陳穎帶著記者來到了一家從外觀上就極具山西特色的飯店,她告訴記者,這家飯店晚上特別紅火,食客一直絡(luò)繹不絕。
在這家店,記者發(fā)現(xiàn),這里采用的是明檔的點(diǎn)菜方法,餐廳廚師們直接就在食客面前進(jìn)行制作,想吃什么直接拿窗戶上的卡片就可以,一目了然。
這家餐廳的主廚王師傅專門給記者展示了一下西紅柿燴莜面魚魚的制作方法。
王師傅 餐廳主廚:這個莜面必須拿開水,必須燙熟了,然后完了再蒸,然后再燴,要把這個和成面團(tuán),和成面團(tuán)之后上籠蒸一下,蒸上十幾分鐘吧。
蒸好的面團(tuán)用手揪一個面劑子,在掌心搓成一條中間厚兩邊細(xì)的面條,從形狀上看就好像一條小魚一樣,在做壽司的竹簾上用工具碾一下,一個是可以更加美觀,二是為了一會兒燴的時候更容易入味。
做這道西紅柿燴莜面魚魚,要使用當(dāng)?shù)氐暮橛,再把西紅柿切成丁,其中還有一個很重要的香料就是記者之前見過的,當(dāng)?shù)厝私凶雎槁榛ǖ臇|西,這究竟是何方神圣呢?
王師傅 餐廳主廚:野生的,純野生的。燴上這個,出的香味,地道山西的香味,它屬于香料的一種,是咱們這兒的特產(chǎn),農(nóng)民吃湯面都加它,就是山上的野韭菜花。
往鍋中加入胡麻油,油溫?zé)?成熟,依次放入麻麻花、蔥、蒜煸炒出香味,把剛才切好的西紅柿丁、土豆丁和豆腐丁放入鍋里繼續(xù)翻炒,再加入適量的白水煮沸,最后把搓好的莜面魚魚放入鍋里燴幾分鐘,一鍋酸香可口的莜面燴魚魚就做好了。
這家店的另外一道招牌菜叫做一品土豆泥。陳穎告訴記者,雖然這是一道創(chuàng)新菜,但是這道菜使用的主食材就是當(dāng)?shù)靥禺a(chǎn)的土豆,山西有一句順口溜,叫做“山藥蛋都是寶,頓頓飯都離不了”,這里所說的山藥蛋就是指土豆。
記者:這個看上去,感覺跟披薩是一樣的感覺。
陳穎 美食愛好者:這是我專門切得洋氣一點(diǎn),里面還有蝦仁什么的,嘗一下土豆做的。
記者:你們這兒的人都特別愛吃土豆?
陳穎 美食愛好者:對,其實(shí)土豆真的富含營養(yǎng),而且山西土豆產(chǎn)量很高的。
中國夜市全攻略(太原篇):精致時尚傳統(tǒng)菜
陳穎帶著記者來到了一個從外面看上去就很像咖啡廳的餐館,這里會有地道的山西本土美食嗎?
記者:我看這個倒是挺有食欲的。
陳穎 美食愛好者:這種是熬魚。
記者:這也是山西本地菜嗎?
陳穎 美食愛好者:對,這個魚是經(jīng)過很長時間熬制,然后將味道全部都融入進(jìn)去,這個其實(shí)是代縣的一個特色,熬制魚的這個方式算是代縣的一個特色。
除了熬魚,陳穎給記者推薦的另外兩道菜都屬于蒸菜,她告訴記者,平時在逢年過節(jié)或者是紅白喜事的宴席上都可以看到蒸菜的身影,現(xiàn)在很多蒸菜都借鑒了廣東地區(qū)喝早茶時用的小籠屜,在這個基礎(chǔ)上進(jìn)行了改良,所以在太原的夜市上,蒸菜也是非常受歡迎的。其中尤以蒸燒肉和蒸黃米最為暢銷。
李江 餐廳負(fù)責(zé)人:這個又叫大黃米,是山西一個特色谷物,我們首先要經(jīng)過長時間泡制讓它充分發(fā)酵,發(fā)酵以后會產(chǎn)生自然黏性和拉絲感,接下來,我們要進(jìn)行蒸,蒸之前呢,我們要加入清水,然后在這個蒸箱中大概要蒸兩個多小時,兩個半小時左右的樣子,它就會呈現(xiàn)出一種很糯,口感很滑,很軟嫩的感覺。
陳穎告訴記者,這個蒸肉條的做法與南方的梅菜扣肉做法很像。
陳穎 美食愛好者:其實(shí)燒肉在很多地方也都有,為什么我說這個是咱們山西的特色呢,就是你看著它,很簡單一個碗蒸出來,其實(shí)經(jīng)過了三道工序,就是先煮,然后再炸,然后再蒸,最后才是你現(xiàn)在看到的這樣。它把這個油脂,因?yàn)樗俏寤ㄈ饴,全部都給它炸出來了,所以吃起來真的是肥而不膩,然后呢入口又是那種很爽,就是很可口的感覺。
李江是這家已經(jīng)經(jīng)營了16年的餐廳的負(fù)責(zé)人,五年前,他從北京郵電大學(xué)畢業(yè)之后,并沒有從事自己學(xué)習(xí)的通信工程專業(yè),反而從父親的手里接班開始管理這家餐廳。
李江上任后做的第一個決定就是把這家經(jīng)營山西傳統(tǒng)菜的餐廳裝修成現(xiàn)在這個樣子。
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李江認(rèn)為自己餐廳的消費(fèi)主體已經(jīng)從60后、70后,逐步變成80后、90后甚至00后。所以他覺得如果環(huán)境不去做改變的話會失去絕大部分顧客,所以裝修勢在必行。另一方面李江始終堅(jiān)持認(rèn)為,傳統(tǒng)菜,并不就等于土掉渣,山西的特色菜也可以變得時尚起來。
李江覺得,將來的餐飲發(fā)展方向,應(yīng)該是做自己的特色,而不是迎合所有人的口味。應(yīng)該去做你最擅長的東西,去讓食客真正喜歡你擅長的東西。
李江 餐廳負(fù)責(zé)人:我目標(biāo)就是讓山西的傳統(tǒng)美食也加入到時尚餐飲行業(yè)里頭來,讓更多的年輕人去喜歡我們的山西傳統(tǒng)美食。
中國夜市全攻略(太原篇):與面為舞
說到美食技藝的傳承與創(chuàng)新,90后小伙王建新也算是太原夜市上的代表人物,別看他這么年輕,卻已經(jīng)在面藝表演師這個行業(yè)里摸爬滾打了10多年的時間。
每天上午10點(diǎn),他都會準(zhǔn)時來到自己的工作的餐廳,在這里最主要的工作就是教徒弟面食技藝。
王建新告訴記者,要想成為一個優(yōu)秀的面藝表演師,首先得精通各種面食的制作方法,然后才能花心思以一種適當(dāng)?shù),絕活的形式來表現(xiàn)面食技藝。
從業(yè)這些年,王建新已經(jīng)進(jìn)行了上千場的面藝表演,不僅在全國各地,甚至遠(yuǎn)涉重洋為食客們表演山西的面食技藝,他最大的心愿就是讓山西的面食墻里開花墻外香,讓更多的人都接受并喜歡山西的面食。
除了精湛的面藝,山西過油肉也是王新建餐館里的特色招牌菜。
制作過油肉要選擇豬里脊肉,里脊肉切好之后用純蛋黃和淀粉抓勻,撒少許鹽腌制幾分鐘。“過油肉”一菜以油傳熱,因過油而名,火候?qū)Υ瞬俗顬橹匾,是成敗的關(guān)鍵。操作時油溫要求165℃左右過油最佳,可使肉片達(dá)到平整舒展、光滑利落的效果。
炒鍋加油燒熱,放入蔥片、姜末、蒜片煸出香味,依次扣入過好油的肉片,冬筍片、蒜臺段,先用醋烹一下再倒入調(diào)好的芡汁,顛翻炒勻即可出鍋。
一道合格的山西過油肉應(yīng)該色澤金黃鮮艷,味道咸鮮,聞有醋意,質(zhì)感外軟里嫩,汁芡適量透明,不薄不厚,稍有明油。
中國夜市全攻略(太原篇):一碗削面闖江湖
陳穎帶記者來到的這家削面館,在太原市區(qū)就有幾十家分店,分布在太原市的大街小巷,據(jù)說每天要接待上萬人,在太原的食客當(dāng)中,擁有非常好的口碑。
陳穎告訴記者,做一碗刀削面不光是對面的要求非常高,對于削面的技法也不是看上去那么簡單的,沒有個三、五年的功夫別想成為合格的削面師傅。
陳穎 美食愛好者:你看,咱們師傅削出來的(面)是不是都很標(biāo)準(zhǔn),(面)有一個標(biāo)準(zhǔn)長度,一般在35厘米左右,而且是中厚,邊薄兒,然后是柳葉形,這才是正兒八經(jīng),好的刀削面。
削面煮好之后,按照山西本地的吃法,要在面上澆上專門炒制的鹵料,面條的滋味則全是來自于這些鹵料。山西幾乎家家戶戶都吃刀削面,而這些刀削面是不是受歡迎,鹵料的炒制就是這碗刀削面最大的秘密。
陳穎介紹說,豬肉臊子刀削面是這家面館點(diǎn)單率最高的,據(jù)說老板就是因?yàn)樽聊コ隽诉@個鹵料的炒制方法之后,這家面館才名聲大噪的。陳穎告訴記者,吃刀削面還有一樣重要伴侶那就是醋。
山西人對于面食的偏愛近乎癡狂,可以說每一個山西人都是吃面的行家,而在山西經(jīng)營的面館,能夠十幾年不倒,一定有它的過人之處。
這家面館的負(fù)責(zé)人叫做鄭宇,在12年前,他在太原市開化寺開了一家僅有30平米的削面館。
鄭宇一直堅(jiān)信自己能夠把刀削面這個山西傳統(tǒng)美食做大做強(qiáng),憑借著一股子執(zhí)著勁,他還真琢磨出了幾個做面的訣竅。
鄭宇 面館負(fù)責(zé)人:內(nèi)蒙古的這個面叫河套面,這個面筋道夠,白度可能稍微差一點(diǎn)。我們山西運(yùn)城面,黃河流域這個面,白度行,筋度稍微弱一點(diǎn)。我們就把河套面(筋道)面粉,和白面粉,和我們運(yùn)城這邊的面粉一摻,我們有一個比例,一弄。
在自己的長期實(shí)踐中,鄭宇發(fā)現(xiàn),因?yàn)橄髅鎺煾祩子高低不同,力度不一樣,用刀的習(xí)慣也不一樣,削出來的面,長短不一,厚薄不一,很難標(biāo)準(zhǔn)化,到底削出來面,應(yīng)該是一個什么樣的標(biāo)準(zhǔn)呢?
鄭宇 面館負(fù)責(zé)人:就是說我們?nèi)艘话愠砸煌朊娴臅r候,拿筷子夾住面的時候,碗離嘴的距離基本就是18厘米到20厘米,17厘米左右,如果這個面從中間一夾,正好要提起來,嘴和碗(距離)能拿起來,如果這個面太長的話,可能就要挑得太高了,或者一口吃不完可能濺到身上。
在鄭宇和其他幾家面食企業(yè)的努力下,由山西省商貿(mào)廳牽頭,相關(guān)單位終于推出了山西刀削面的制作規(guī)范。鄭宇的削面館也從當(dāng)時的一家小店,發(fā)展到了全國100多家直營店,僅在太原就有43家店,每天要接待2萬多名食客。
面館的規(guī)模不斷壯大,鄭宇又發(fā)現(xiàn)了一個新的問題,就是在擴(kuò)張中,怎么實(shí)現(xiàn)標(biāo)準(zhǔn)化?怎么保證食客走進(jìn)任何一家自己的直營店,面的味道都是一樣的。
這個削面機(jī)器人,是鄭宇和河北的一家企業(yè)聯(lián)合研究出來的,經(jīng)過自己多年的研究,最終確定了這臺機(jī)器的各項(xiàng)數(shù)據(jù),現(xiàn)在除了形象店之外,鄭宇旗下每一家店都配備了這樣的機(jī)器人,不僅極大的提高了工作效率,還能保證自己每家店面食的標(biāo)準(zhǔn)都是一樣的。
不僅僅是面,這家店的澆面鹵也是有標(biāo)準(zhǔn)的。
鄭宇 面館負(fù)責(zé)人:我們這個招牌豬肉面,這個豬肉是用肥肉和瘦肉三比七的比例,經(jīng)過炒制,接近三個小時,慢火熬制出來的。它可不是簡單炒、熬制出來的,炒好的肉,完了再加上湯,再燉上25分鐘,我們就出來,湯是很鮮的。
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